2007 Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Gueules de Loup

From a rocky yet clay-rich (hence, water- and acid-retentive) Portlandian limestone site, the Goisot 2007 Cotes d’Auxerre Gueule de Loup smells of citrus oil, diverse flowers and herbs, and ocean breezes; comes to the palate refreshingly and lusciously endowed with grapefruit and lemon; and finishes with admirable penetration and transparency to salt and stone nuances. If richness of texture is a prime concern, this will not be the Goisot offering to favor, but this ball of energy, refreshment, and minerality will be versatile and fascinating to follow for at least the next 6-8 years. Guilhem Goisot (whose name has now replaced that of his mother in this estate’s official title) echoed the sentiments of many regional growers that the grapes – while already adequately high in sugar at the end of August – were simply not ripe. But time was on an Auxerrre vintner’s side in 2007, and the Goisots were able to pick selectively, parcel by parcel, for three weeks, as compared with nine days in 2006. Their single-vineyard bottlings came close to 13.5% in natural alcohol, those few lots that approached 14% having been consigned to blends. Sauvignon, with its characteristically southwestern exposures (hail-free this year), was picked last – albeit already mid-September – and adequately ripe. Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29