2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder

A stunning effort is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder. It exhibits blue and black fruits along with notions of licorice, graphite, and incense, a formidable array of concentrated fruit flavors, full-bodied power, a silkiness that is atypical for this vintage, and a long, 40+ second finish. This superb Cabernet Sauvignon can be drunk now or cellared for 15+ years. The wines for this serious Howell Mountain estate are made by Sean Capiaux of Capiaux Cellars. Production is limited to approximately 1,000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain (where they own 30 acres) and smaller amounts of the Mt. Veeder cuvee. Tel. (707) 965-2898; fax (707) 965-3010

(15.6% alcohol; includes 6% each merlot and malbec plus 5% petit verdot, 2% each carmenere and St. Macaire and 1% cabernet franc) Good full bright ruby. Superripe, highly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, dark chocolate, licorice, graphite and pepper. Large-scaled, sappy and dense, with a silky texture to its flavors of berries, dark spices and pepper. As lush as this is, it also boasts a very lively mouth feel. Despite all those varieties, this comes across as an essence of cabernet sauvignon. A huge, mouthfilling wine with big, toothcoating tannins and superb persistence. This one has had more time to rest in barrel following the last racking, noted winemaker Capiaux. (Incidentally, St. Macaire is a rare Bordeaux variety that, along with carmenere, has always been permitted in Meritage blends in California.)