1997 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V.
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Tasting notes
The 1997 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a very pretty, understated wine. Lemon confit, hazelnut, dried flowers, mint, herbs, spice and pastry notes infuse the 2017 with lovely character. This is an especially mid-weight, restrained vintage for Clos des Goisses that reflects both the personality of a cold year and the era before Charles Philipponat began refocusing the maison on quality beginning in the early 2000s. As such, it is really a wine that belongs to the past, both literally and figuratively. The 1997 was done mostly in 15hL enamel-lined tanks. Dosage is 4.3 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2022.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 1997 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a stunning Champagne, with aromas of coffee beans, vanilla, honeycomb, pastry, ripe orchard fruits and a touch of menthol. Full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s perfectly balanced with an enveloping core of fruit and a delicate mousse. It concludes with an elegantly vinous profile and a long, sapid finish. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next five to 10 years.
This has an enticing nose of pastries, apricots, raspberries, rhubarb, baklava and manuka honey. Lemon curd, mushrooms and marmalade, too. Opens up beautifully, rich yet fresh and vibrant, with tight and energetic bubbles. Late release. Drink or hold.
A current release made before Charles Philipponnat took over. He observed that he would have picked the grapes slightly riper and fermented them slightly warmer, adding 'but it's still very good now', proving that Clos des Goisses can transcend vintage and vinification. Still extremely tense and racy with a note of ginger. A little shorter than the Clos des Goisses bottlings but really full and broad on the mid palate. Well done! (JR)
About the producer
Champagne Philipponnat, an historic family estate that has been cultivating the region for an extraordinary 500 years, has been producing Champagne on the Clos des Goisses site since 1935. Charles Philipponnat is currently at the helm of the Champagne House.