1998 Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Millesime

(84 months on its lees; disgorged July, 2006) Yellow-gold with a strong bead. Deep, rich and truffley, with a strong yeasty overlay to its aromas of baked apple, poached pear, peach skin and oyster shell. Powerful, fleshy Champagne with impressive depth and fully mature pear and pit fruit flavors complemented by leesy brown butter. Finishes sappy, ripe and long, with a lingering note of chestnut honey. This would be great with a truffle- or wild mushroom-sauced dish; in any event, it certainly needs to be served with food.