2016 Astralis

The inky, tannic 2016 Astralis Syrah will no doubt need some time before it reaches its apogee. Right now, it only hints at that potential. Appetizing scents of roasted meat and cinnamon toast meet red raspberries and black cherries on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is densely concentrated and richly textured but closed, locked up by firm, dusty tannins that bar the lengthy finish from expanding and being truly expressive. I'm tempted to say buyers should check in on the wine in five years, but that may not be enough time. If you absolutely must check it out now, taste it repeatedly over the course of a full evening to catch glimpses of espresso, black olives and delicate herbal nuances.

The flagship 2016 Syrah Astralis checks as all Syrah that comes from a single vineyard planted in 1920 on more gravelly, clay, and iron-laced soils. Brought up in 90% new French oak, it has a classic, almost restrained bouquet of pure Shiraz goodness, including ripe blackberry and blueberry fruits intermixed with notes of charred meat, rendered bacon fat, crushed violets, and pepper. Beautifully balanced and full-bodied, it's a Shiraz that seems to have one foot in Côte Rôtie and one foot in the McLaren Vale. It's going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for 20-30 years. It's the real deal and an incredible expression of Syrah.