1996 Pyrus

Ruby-red. Black cherry, plum, licorice, fresh herbs and mint on the nose. Dense and fairly concentrated, with nicely delineated but slightly hard-edged plum and dark berry flavors complicated by a minty nuance. Youthfully unevolved but also seems a bit stunted. Finishes with dusty, fine tannins and a hint of dark chocolate. Will this evolve in bottle? This was the best of Lindemans' current lineup; the winery's inexpensive bottlings were mostly sour and pinched. Also tasted: 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon St. George Vineyard Coonawarra*.