2020 The Steading

The Steading is a mainstay in the Australian market—it has been loved for years for its consistency and reliability, and the 2020 The Steading here today shows us exactly what we want. This is ripe and full-bodied (15% alcohol), however as is usual for Torbreck, the wine is executed in a sophisticated and seamless manner. There are notes of campfire, singed eucalyptus, salted mulberry, blueberry compote, black cat licorice, pink peppercorns and dark cocoa. All kinds of good.

Full screwcapped bottle 1,305 g. 69% Marsanne, 21% unoaked Roussanne, 10% Viognier from the Descendant vineyard in Marananga planted in 1994. Picked 25 to 28 February. Marsanne and Viognier were aged for eight months on lees in a mix of new and seasoned barriques. Pale straw. Floral nose with some fresh acidity that's not that obviously superior to many southern French counterparts that are much cheaper. Good structure and sufficient acidity. Some quite appealing honeysuckle character but no bargain. (JR)