2017 The Wheelwright Shiraz

Planted in 1968, in the cooler part of the Mount Lofty Ranges in Eden Valley, this is the third release of this wine. Lean, spicy and with brilliant concentration (sans weight), the 2017 The Wheelwright Single Vineyard Shiraz is an elegant wine of line and poise. The finish rounds out into a bruised plum, purple jube, licorice character that adds a hint of sweetness to the affair. This may sound a little left of center, but there’s a (good) sweet balsamic roast beetroot character in the very center of the wine that brings on an earthy, sweet, bloody character. All very Eden in terms of fruit, but very distinct too. As it opens up, it becomes more vibrant—fresher, even. Yet it remains slightly sinewy and savory at its heart.

Full Vinoloked bottle a modest 1,235 g. 100% Shiraz planted in 1968 from the Wheelwright vineyard at 470 m 'managed with organic and biodynamic practices' and picked 9 to 27 April. This is the family's coolest, most southerly, north-facing single vineyard in the south of the valley with quite sandy soils and not far from the north-western Adelaide Hills. Relatively high rainfall. Matured in oak (15% new), of which 13% was American rather than French, for 18 months before blending and bottling. pH 3.52, TA 6.02 g/l. Transparent garnet. Lusciously ripe nose but extremely fresh on the palate, with medicinal and herbal top notes. Only medium body, despite the alcoholic strength, but this opens up most impressively on the finish – a real fan of flavour! I tasted this over several days and found it really opened up with time, which bodes well for its longevity. Real lift and truly beautiful texture on the finish with a hint of unsweetened chocolate. You could drink this now but do aerate it well before serving. (JR)

The more difficult vintage is on display in the 2017 Shiraz The Wheelwright, which is relatively simple with bright plum and blueberry tones. Lightweight and understated with soft tannins, this is best enjoyed soon.