NV Ulysse Collin Le Jardin d'Ulysse Extra-Brut (2015 base - 60 months)
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The NV Champagne Le Jardin d’Ulysse Extra Brut is 100% Chardonnay from 2017, though the label still lists all three grapes because it includes reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. From a north-facing orientation and aged 72 months sur latte after bottling, it reveals notes of citrus marmalade, spice, ripe stone fruit, and a salty edge (more praline here, less toffee). It retains its nervous tension due to the northern exposure and has savory complexity but also a delicious fruity feel, and while it’s ready to drink now, it has the bones to age with ease. The palate carries notes of graham, persistent nervous energy, and mineral persistence, and the kaleidoscopic feel of this vineyard begins to emerge as it opens, with red and blue shimmering light coming through. Only the third vintage of this wine, at this stage it feels zesty and angular-pixelated. The mousse is pillowy and round but then meets crystalline salty edges. Drink 2025-2055. This comes from 1.5 hectares just outside the domaine. Olivier Collin is based in the Coteaux du Petit Morin, in the village of Congy. In the 1930s, his grandfather became the first récoltant-manipulant in the region, bottling only from his own vineyards and refusing to sell fruit to négociants. Olivier’s father sold the company in 1987, but in March 2003, Olivier and his family decided to reclaim a portion of the vineyards and begin making wine again. By that time, the health of the soils had deteriorated, so his first priority was to buy a tractor and start rebuilding them, and he was able to produce his first vintage in 2004. He prefers to work as naturally as possible, although he does not tie himself to the constraints of any organic or biodynamic certification. In the vineyard, he seeks high maturity in the fruit without allowing it to tip into over-ripeness. His approach emphasizes balance, natural yeasts, natural malolactic fermentations, low intervention, and the addition of sulfur only at the time of pressing before fermentation. The goal is always the same: to produce the best possible base wine with real gastronomic importance. In the cellar, everything is fermented in barrels, mostly used, and the dosage is kept very low, varying from 0.85 grams to 4 grams per liter, depending on what the wine needs. Recently, he has been extending aging on the lees and continues to push the boundaries of what he can achieve in the Coteaux du Petit Morin. In 2024, they lost 50% of Maillon to mildew, but they’re very happy with the resulting quality and density in the wines.
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Jeb Dunnuck
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
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Readers may have wondered about the delay in releasing Le Jardin d'Ulysse, but the long wait since the 2016-base release has been worth it. Ulysse Collin's new NV Le Jardin d'Ulysse (2017 base) was disgorged in February 2024 after 72 months on the lees, adding an extra year of aging compared to previous renditions, resulting in a more complete wine. Based on the 2017 vintage, it’s a rather unique version of this cuvée, as it’s produced almost entirely from Chardonnay (almost, because there are small percentages of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the 10% reserve wines from 2016). The decision came from issues with rot and damage affecting both Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir in 2017, so Collin decided to harvest only Chardonnay to preserve the quality. The result is indeed impressive, as the wine opens in the glass with a deep bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, beeswax and pine resin. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and chiseled, structured around chalky extract and electric acidity, concluding with a long, saline finish. Olivier Collin has delivered a brilliant third rendition of Le Jardin d'Ulysse, the most seamless and coherent in relation to the rest of the range. As always, it derives from a mostly north-facing site (with 30% facing south) next to the winery in Congy, and it is the last plot they harvest.
This is the second release for the NV Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les Jardin d’Ulysse Extra Brut, the first having been produced in 2015, and it is a blend of Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay from a single 1.55-hectare plot above the family house. It is 90% from the 2016 harvest and the rest reserve wine, aged for 60 months on the lees with 2.4 grams per liter of dosage. The nose is forward with wet stone, Mirabel plum, and pink peppercorn, and the wine is structured and broad on the palate, with savory herbs, pink grapefruit, and wild raspberry. It is tense and wound up a bit at this tasting and should allow another year in cellar to show its best. Drink 2024-2044. 3500 bottles were produced. Olivier Collin is based in Coteaux du Petit Morin, in the village of Congy. In the 1930s, his grandfather was the first récoltant-manipulant in the region, bottling only from his own vineyards and not selling any grapes to négociants. Olivier’s father sold the company in 1987, and in March of 2003, Olivier and his family made the decision to reclaim a portion of the vineyards and to begin making wine. At that time, the health of the soils had deteriorated, so his first work was to purchase a tractor in order to improve the soil’s health, and he was able to produce his first vintage in 2004. He likes to work as naturally as possible, though he prefers to be free of the constraints of any organization for organic or biodynamic certifications. In the vineyard, he looks for high maturity of the grapes without being overripe. He strives to work in a balanced way, with natural yeasts, natural malolactic fermentations, low intervention, and sulfur addition only at the pressing prior to fermentation. The goal is to produce the best base wine possible, with a focus on gastronomic importance. In the winery, he ferments entirely in barrels, the majority of which are used. There are small levels of dosage added that will vary from vintage to vintage, ranging between 0.85 grams to 4 grams per liter, depending on what the wine needs. Recent developments include increasing the aging on lees, and readers can expect to see this continue with additional cuvées in the years to come.
Revisited over a year after disgorgement, Collin's debut NV Extra-Brut Les Jardin d'Ulysse (2015) has really fleshed out, offering up expressive aromas of orange oil, mirabelle plum, peach, buttery pasty, nutmeg, honeycomb and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, seamless and fleshy, with racy acids and a long, chalky finish, this is beginning to drink beautifully.