2015 Pol Roger Cuvee Winston Churchill

There is a wonderful biscuity aroma to this Pinot Noir-dominated Champagne. Named after the British war-time prime minister and an avid consumer of Champagne, the wine is mature, full of ripe yeasty flavors and concentration. The wine, from a great vintage, is at a perfect stage and ready to be drunk. But the wine will also age for many years, certainly until 2030.

Coming from only Grand Cru villages of Montagne de Reims and always boasting a large proportion of Pinot Noir in the cuvée, the 2015 Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut displays a medium straw color and has a stunning nose that’s highly aromatic with toasted croissant, kirsch, and orange peel. With a noble structure and feel to the wine, it’s full-bodied with broad shoulders but has remarkable balance for this hot vintage. The mouthfeel is exceptional and long, with vibrant acidity, a rounded and elegant mousse, a chalky texture, and a mouthwatering finish. Given the vintage, it’s showing a more approachable side already, although it should have significant longevity ahead of it. In its youth, it’s more approachable than the 2013, and I would perhaps drink some of these now and then wait to be surprised as it holds on and likely has a wide drinking window. Drink 2024-2040. 7 grams per liter of dosage. Pol Roger is a sixth-generation family-owned business founded in 1849 that is solely focused on Champagne based in Epernay. Damien Cambres replaced former chef de cave Dominique Petit in 2018. Since 2011, they have fully moved to stainless steel fermentation and aging. They house 9.5 kilometers of cellars that are notably deep at 33 meters underground and employ four full-time riddlers to turn the bottles and carefully collect sediment from them. (Only 11 exist in the region today.) This year they completed a new facility for packaging and shipping that rests on the footprint of the historical site of the original cellars, which disastrously collapsed in 1900, destroying 1.5 million bottles. In August of 2022, Christian de Billy passed away at the age of 93. He was the great grandson of Pol Roger and was instrumental in the creation and launch of several cuvées, including the Rosé in 1961, the Blanc de Blancs vintage cuvée in 1965, and the cuvée Sir Winston Churchill in 1984 with the 1975 vintage. They own 92 hectares today and produce approximately 1.7 million bottles annually. Pol Roger is a Pinot Noir-based house that focuses on the art of blending. The wines tend to strike a balance of refinement in the mousse without shying away from power and structure across the range.

The 2015 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill shows off the savory side of the vintage to great effect. Hints of dried pear, sage, mint, dried flowers, lemon oil and chamomile open gradually in this mid-weight, lithe edition of Pol Roger's tête de cuvée. The 2015 unfolds nicely with time in the glass, but I wouldn't think of opening a bottle anytime soon. Readers will find a nervy Winston Churchill marked by notable freshness and vigor more than size. This is a fine effort in a vintage that has proven to be far trickier than most observers originally envisioned. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged September 2022. (AG)