2020 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte

This chardonnay masterpiece is currently like a fully wound Breguet watch, but the extremely subtle nose of citrus, wild herbs and flowers is already breathtaking. Mind-blowing concentration, purity and precision on the generous but by no means massive palate. The really extraordinary thing is the intense crushed-stone minerality that's married to sensual creaminess on the mid-palate, then asserts itself ever more singularly at the finish, until it's completely overwhelming. From 2.33 hecatres of vineyards on all four terraces of this famous site. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru, which was undergoing its élevage in foudres, has a very sophisticated bouquet with mineral-rich citrus fruit, hints of hazelnut and lanolin. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity. There is a little more density and concentration compared to the regular Chevalier-Montrachet and though there is a patina of oak to be subsumed, this will surely age with style. Excellent. (Readers should note that no 2021 will be produced due to frost and there will just be a tiny amount of Chevalier-Montrachet.)

This is truly a classic of the house, which owns a total of 2.3ha spread over all four terraces of Chevalier. Each parcel is vinified individually to produce this magnificent wine that shows lemon peel and mineral notes on the initial attack, but continues to open up aromatically on the nose and on the palate, revealing rich flavours of marzipan, butter and beeswax. This is richer than the producer's Corton-Charlemagne, and lingers delightfully on the very impressive finish. Superb wine, not to be missed.