2013 Corton Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2013 Corton had completed its malolactic fermentation two weeks prior to my visit in August 2014. "We will probably rack quite soon," Charles told me, "as we like to allow the wine to breathe in stainless steel. The stress from the hail meant that it took two weeks for the vine to recover and restart the growth. We had to spend a lot of time on the sorting table." Lucid ruby in color, there was just a touch of reduction to bypass before one encounters bilberry and blackcurrant aromas that are nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins. There is something quite masculine and structured about this Corton, though the fruit counterbalances the tannins nicely on the saline finish. Nice weight and length, but it will probably need several years in bottle.
Critic scores
Average Score
The Wine Advocate
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
The 2013 Corton-Charlemagne was decimated by hail that reduced the crop by 70. What survived was raised in one-third new oak, as has been the policy over 40 years when Charles's father made the wine. Allowing the grand cru to open over ten minutes (while discussing the travails of Burgundy with Charles) it opens to reveal a clean and pure, somehow "nonchalant" bouquet with peach skin and lime flower that is nicely defined and entwined with the oak. There is a spicy, lemongrass note just on the tip of the tongue on the finish, although at this stage I feel that the 2012 had more complexity and persistence. Let's see if it puts on more weight by the time of bottling.
Bright, pale yellow. Tight aromas of mirabelle, crushed herbs, licorice and powdered stone are complicated by a distinctive oyster shell quality and a hint of orange zest. Dense and creamy but juicy too, showing good cut and a light touch. Perhaps not squeaky-clean but the exotic orange zest and mineral flavors carry well on the gripping, slightly bitter-edged finish. This youthfully austere wine needs at least five years of cellaring.
About the producer
This historic Domaine Bonneau du Martray is an iconic Burgundy address, dedicated to making two Grands Crus: its iconic white Corton-Charlemagne and red Corton, expressing the special terroir of the hill of Corton. Today it is owned by Stanley Kroenke, of Screaming Eagle fame.