2003 Corton Grand Cru

Unquestionably the finest red I have ever encountered at Domaine Bonneau du Martray, the 2003 Corton (red) explodes from the glass with superb black cherry and violet aromas. Reminiscent of a hillside premier cru from Chambolle-Musigny, it reveals loads of dark berry fruit, stones, violets, and spices. Not a blockbuster, this is a light to medium-bodied, velvety-textured offering with outstanding depth of fruit and lovely refinement. Its long finish displays additional layers of dark cherries, blackberries, and copious ripe tannin. My sense is that this wine will shut down on its tannic backbone before roaring back to life. Drink it between 2009 and 2016. Bravo! Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The 2003 Corton Grand Cru is the product of a year that at that time was the driest, most shockingly warm year most vignerons had ever seen. Prune, dark cherry, worn-in leather, tobacco and incense are the signatures of a wine that has reached its maturity. What I am most surprised by is how resolved the tannins are, in a positive sense. All things considered, the 2003 has aged well. It won’t improve from here, so any remaining bottles need to be finished.