2020 Ermitage Le Meal

Another wine that flirts with perfection, the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal comes from the steep, south-facing slope right in the heart of Hermitage hill. All destemmed and brought up in the standard 20% new barrels and demi-muids, it has a more tight, straight, almost reserved profile than usual yet doesn't lack for density, mid-palate depth, structure, and concentration. Blackberries, redcurrants, spice, dried flowers, and loamy earth all define the aromatics, and it's full-bodied, has ripe, polished tannins, and a great finish. It needs to be forgotten for at least 5-7 years but will evolve for three decades.

Full purple color. Deeply pitched kirsch, cassis, licorice, olive, cured meat and floral aromas are sharpened by suggestions of black pepper and smoky minerals. Broad and weighty in the mouth, offering intense bitter cherry, dark berry compote, fruitcake and espresso flavors and a sweet hint of candied violet. Chewy tannins add grip to an impressively long, smoky finish that leaves kirsch, licorice, espresso and floral notes behind. This one is built for the long haul.

Explosive ripe blackberries melded with spicy oak. Very smooth and generous, shot through with a thick weave of sweet, ripe tannins. The alcohol is on the high side, but this has very impressive concentration and tannic weight - coupled with balanced acidity this promises to age with interest. I love the sweet, soft tannins, but this will take a long time to come round and show fully display its terroir.