2017 Barolo Tre Tine

The Giuseppe Rinaldi 2017 Barolo Tre Tine was bottled in September 2020, and Carlotta Rinaldi tells me that the wine has gone through various moments of openness and shyness since then. The wine was a little closed when I tasted it this past summer, but its evolution is far from over. As you contemplate the bouquet, you sense lots of fruit, yet there is no excessive ripeness like you might expect from this hot and dry vintage. It shows elegant fruit weight, streamlined and silky, with dried violet, spice and rusty nail. It carries a medium texture that is elongated by the wine's integrated tannins and acidity. Tre Tine is a blend of fruit from Ravera, Le Coste and Cannubi San Lorenzo, and these latter two vineyards were harvested especially early in this vintage, starting on September 13, 2017, which is unusual for Nebbiolo.

The 2017 Barolo Tre Tine is fabulous. A wine that marries classicism with the racy personality of the year, the 2017 hits all the right buttons. It's a wine that satisfies all the senses, with more than enough to please both the hedonistic and intellectual senses. Everything about the 2017 is spot on. Bright red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, lavender and spice build into the delineated, salivating finish. As always, the Tre Tine is a bit more linear than the Brunate. In 2017, it is one of the wines of the vintage. Don't miss it.

Blend of three vineyards (Cannubi-San Lorenzo, Le Coste, Ravera) within the commune of Barolo. Total skin maceration time was 25 days. Bottled in July. (20% Le Coste, 20% Cannubi-San Lorenzo and 60% Ravera). 'We ferment every parcel separately and Cannubi is the first to be racked off.' Pumpovers twice and punching down once a day. Mid ruby. Concentrated, minerally, earthy cherry nose that is not too sweet, but with plenty of depth and with a lifted, peppery edge and a prickle on the nose. Succulent, sappy cherry fruit with long, chewy tannins. Great length and intensity and with a complex aromatic red-fruit finish with plenty of acidity. Approachable now, but needs more bottle age for all parts to integrate. (WS)