2019 Ornellaia
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Tasting notes
The latest release from Ornellaia is an astounding wine – the third in a trilogy of good vintages at the estate. There’s a little more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend in 2019 (62%), something that shines through in the wine, complemented by 31% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aromas of assam tea, toast, incense, vanilla bean and liquorice root mingle with incredibly pure, dark blackcurrant fruit. The wine shifts to offer further complexity with every swirl of the glass. While enticing now, the 2019 reveals its true potential on the palate – with a structure that tells of its potential. There’s mouth-watering acidity that washes over ribbons of silken yet crunchy dark fruit. There’s immense concentration here, with a corduroy grip of tannins that dominates the finish, before the acidity returns and savoury, smoky notes linger long after the wine is gone.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
There is more emphasis on the Cabernet Sauvignon in the 2019 vintage, with the highest percentage in the past 20 years contributing to 62% of the blend. Leaning more into the red-fruited spectrum, the 2019 Ornellaia is outstanding in its balance between its richness and its tension, with layers of fresh menthol, macchia (the Tuscan equivalent of the French garrigue), redcurrant, and fresh roses. It is full bodied and long, with blackberry, plum, dusty earth, and long fruit on the finish. In contrast to the 2020, it has a more angular and direct nature, with powerful mineral richness and purity of fruit. Full and structured without lacking for elegance, it should come as no surprise that this will be a wine to cellar and go the distance over the coming decades. Founded in 1981 by Marchesi Lodovico Antinori, since 2005 the ownership of Ornellaia has been entirely with the Frescobaldi family of wine estates. The famed oenologist Michel Rolland has been an instrumental consultant since 1991 and remains so to this day. Axel Heinz, who was brought on as winemaker in 2005, is now the Estate Director, and Olga Fusari, who started as an intern in 2005, has now taken the lead as winemaker. In the winery, they work entirely with medium toast French oak, hoping not to impact the aromatic profile of the wines too much. The Serre Nuove, which was established in 1997, originally served as an outlet for the younger vines of the estate, but today it has evolved, with its own full expression and style, as a wine to drink more immediately than the flagship label. As for the Ornellaia, they believe these are wines that really begin to show their best after ten years of maturation.
The 2019 Ornellaia is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted here. All the elements are so well-balanced. Dark and racy, with fabulous class and pedigree to burn, the 2019 is superb from the very first taste. Dark plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice build over time, but it is the wine’s stunning finesse that impresses most. The 2019 has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since the 2002. That very much comes through in the wine’s vibrancy and aromatic presence. (Originally Published in March 2022)
Sweet oak spice, generous black fruit and delicious black-tea aromas – there is ready complexity here, despite the youthfulness, and it wouldn't be a crime to drink this now. There is of course enough tannin and acid to age – and incredible persistence too. A great reflection of a great vintage. (RH)
About the producer
Based in the foothills of Bolgheri, Ornellaia is one of the original Super Tuscans, making some of Italy’s finest Cabernet blends. Created by Lodovico Antinori, today the estate is owned by the Frescobaldi family, which also owns sibling property Masseto.