2017 Paleo Rosso
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Paleo is lifted with an herbal perfume of wild herbs, dusty earth, and wild raspberry, and it offers ample structure and refreshing acidity. Its tannins are a bit more angular, and it reveals notes of crunchy, snappy cherry fruit along with light toast, with herbal notes on the finish. Anyone shy about greenness will not like this, but I really enjoyed it. Drink 2023-2042. 100% new oak was used for this wine. One of the benchmark wineries of Bolgheri, Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli purchased the estate in 1983 and planted their first four hectares of vines. Today, Cinzia Merli is joined by her two sons, Elia and Mattia, who work together to run the estate. Their holdings now consist of ten parcels, eight in Bolgheri and two in Bibbona, just to the north. In the vineyards, they practice organic farming while also implementing some biodynamic practices. Paleo Rosso’s first vintage was in 1989, before becoming exclusively dedicated to Cabernet Franc in 2001. Today, they make some of the most compelling ranges of single varietal wines. Messorio is dedicated to Merlot, Scrio to Syrah, and Paleo Rosso to Cabernet Franc.
Critic scores
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Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2017 Paleo Rosso is superb. It is also the wine in this range that seems to have handled the rigors of 2017 best. Then again, that is the magic of Cabernet Franc on the Tuscan Coast. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, dried flowers, mint, sage and cedar give Paleo its aromatic lift. Some varietal character has been baked out because of the heat of the year. In exchange, readers will find a Paleo Rosso that will drink well with just a year or two in bottle. The 2017 was fermented in cement and aged for 14 months in French oak barrels, 90% new with light toast.
The Three Graces of Le Macchiole are Messorio, Scrio and Paleo (Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, respectively). Of these three top-tier releases, my favorite is the 2017 Paleo. This is an upright and direct expression of the grape that carefully sheds some dusty or mineral aromas before opening the way for determined black fruit, charred meat, spice and cured tobacco or cigar. There is quite a bit of oak, but it works beautifully against the natural intensity and rich concentration of the hot vintage. More unexpected are those pretty tones of lilac, blue flower and aniseed that add to the detailed rendering and complexity of the bouquet. This wine won my heart.