2019 Rausch Spatlese Auction 04 20
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Tasting notes
The Riesling Saarburger Rausch Spätlese A.P. #1 signifies, as is the Zillikens’ usual practice, that they consider it the apex of this particular vintage collection. The nose signals a major departure from the wines that preceded it in this vintage collection. Date, white raisin, overripe quince and poire distillate are accompanied by candied suggestions, smoky and horseradish-like prickle and a note of caramelized resin that would seem to originate with oak. (For more about this estate’s active renewal of casks, consult my introduction to their vintage 2015 collection.) Overripe pear and quince dominate on the palate, while brown spice and savory saline notes lend welcome counterpoint to a lingering finish that, while dominantly sweet, manages to maintain a modicum of primary juiciness. Right now, this bottling’s ostensibly lesser A.P. #3 counterpart is more polished and harmonious, a situation that my intuition suggests to me will remain the case. (I inquired more than once what was the A.P. #2 of this vintage – because Zilliken wines are nearly always numbered in reverse order of perceived stature – but was not informed. Perhaps this is some interesting secret.)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
You would be well advised to cancel anything else you were planning to do today, because this is brimming with pineapple and papaya aromas that will suck you into the concentrated and graceful palate. I love the dangerously refreshing finish that's also very silky.
The 2019 Rausch Spätlese is clear, precise, fresh and flinty on the nose. Obviously based on perfectly botrytized grapes, this is a dense, concentrated, rich and generous but fine and elegant Spätlese from the Saarburger Rausch. The finish is piquant and salty, still young but already stimulating. 8% alcohol. Tasted from AP 04-20 in April 2020.
AP number 04 20. TA 6.9 g/l, RS 86 g/l. As with the Kabinett, the nose is restrained. Then there's a certain delicate honeyed quality on the palate. Very crisp acidity. Brisk and clean and elegant. Is there such as thing as an airborne apple? The rapier-like acidity is admirable. Long and rich on the finish. Really rather glorious. (JR)