2017 Croft Quinta da Roeda Serikos

The 2017 Sērikos Quinta da Roeda Vintage Port is a field blend of typical grapes, like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca, among others. It was aged for approximately 20 months in used French oak and comes in with 96 grams of residual sugar. This has only been seen as tank sample in the past. The fruit for this is sourced from vineyards planted in the late 19th century to the 1930s. Much tighter than the regular Croft, even after decanting, this is precise and focused with superb finesse. The expressive fruit, though, is even better than the fine structure. This is a winner on all fronts, but be a bit patient. It has plenty of upside potential in the cellar.

Extremely floral with blackberries and blueberries on the nose that follow through to a full body, very sweet yet tannic palate that shows structure and power. Chewy and grippy at the finish. Give it at least four to five years to soften. Try after 2024.

The maiden 2017 Serikos from Croft comes from the oldest vines located in Quinta da Roêda. The name refers to the quinta's involvement in silk production and the texture of the wine. It was picked from August 31 and was notable for the density of its musts from the thick-skinned grapes. Almost opaque in colour, it has a spellbinding bouquet of intense blackcurrant, crushed violet petals and later, star anis and camphor. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin, a silver bead of acidity that slices through the multi-layered, intense black fruit laced with white pepper and sage. This is endowed with unerring symmetry, predictably a silky texture and outstanding crispiness towards the never-ending finish. Regal. Total production is 2,425 bottles. (NM)