2015 Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec

Is it possible that the 2015 Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec is coming around finally? Nine years from harvest, and the wine is starting to shed some of its backwards characters. I've always had hope. On the nose, you get fresh leather, raspberry coulis, licorice, a hint of Australian sandalwood and loads of nori and kelp. The tannins are pliable and fine and streak across the palate with grace and pace. This was made with 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot, picked in the middle of March to early April 2015. It had a wild ferment, destemmed, and was matured in 51% new French oak for 16 months. Interestingly, this has the highest total acidity of all the vintages in front of me today, with seven grams per liter and a pH of 3.51. Perhaps the acidity coupled with the warm vintage are contributing factors to its slow evolution. Whatever the reason, it's looking better today than I've thought for some time. Hang on if you can, I think it has more to give. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

The nose is led by graphite and fine cedar to start before the fruit unfurls in gentle mulberry and plum. There's some classic dried violet notes along with terra cotta and pressed rose, as well as wafts of black olive tapenade. The palate is plump and fulsome with lashings of graphite, nori, red currant, bay and cedar before a good firm line of integrated tannins frames it all up. There's a Nebbiolo sensibility here on account of the rose, brick dust and tarry notes. A nice balance of power and finesse.

78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. Winemaker Virginia Willcock. The original Vasse Felix vineyard planted by Dr Tom Cullity in 1967 and the site of Margaret  River’s oldest vines, with careful expansion made over time. Just 4 km from the ocean,  the Wilyabrup ridge elevation offers enhanced sea-breeze exposure and well-draining  gravel loam soils. Mild vintage in Margaret River with no extreme weather conditions, allowing for balanced fruit and a slow and steady intake, but yields were down across the region. All fruit was destemmed without crushing and allowed to ferment with ambient yeast. The Petit Verdot,  Malbec and most of the Cabernet (making up 54%) were open-top fermented, hand-plunged  and pressed dry. The remaining 46% of the Cabernet and Malbec were static fermented,  gently pumped over through a splash tub and then left on skins for up to 34 days. Basket-pressed to French oak (51% new) and matured ‘for only 16 months in this delicate vintage’, with minimal racking. Surprisingly similar colour to the 2020. This seems, in a god way, a little more fragile than the 2020 on the nose. Almost delicate! Racy and refined and sophisticated. (JR)