2016 Colore del Testamatta
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Tasting notes
Bibi's top wine is sourced from some of the oldest vineyards in Tuscany. The wine is a blend of indigenous varietals (predominantly Sangiovese as well as small proportions of Canaiolo and Colorino). According to Bibi the Colorino brings fruit and velvety tannins, the Canaiolo minerality and intensity, whilst the Sangiovese represents the structure and power of the wine. The wine comes from 3 separate vineyards with very distinct personality traits. The Lamole vineyard is situated at 620 metres and has vines aged 80 years and older, producing small clusters of tiny berries. The Vincigliata vineyard was the original vineyard of Colore situated at 300 metres altitude with soils dominated by clay and the Galestro rocks typical of the Chianti Classico region, whilst the Sienna vineyard is grown on more fertile soils, high in siliceous stone bring power and structure to the wines.
Critic scores
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Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
This vintage is incredibly sharp and etched in terms of its definition, and that's a quality I find across Tuscany in 2016. The Bibi Graetz 2016 Colore (made with 80% Sangiovese complemented by smaller parts Canaiolo and Colorino) is quite emphatic and shows bigger volume than most of the other wines in this flight. This edition comes from old vines, mostly, and there is a stirring of extra complexity recognizable on the finish, along with smooth tannins and balanced freshness.
The 2016 Colore is dark and brooding in the glass, slowly blossoming with a wave of dried black cherries, sage, cinnamon and crushed ashen stone. It washes across the palate with the silkiest textures imaginable, neatly balanced by brisk acidity, which also helps to enliven its core of tart red and black fruits. This finishes classically structured and incredibly long, leaving sour citrus and sweet herbal tones to linger on. The 2016 still needs time, yet patience will be rewarded.
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino. A wonderful Tuscan vintage with a balance of rain and sun throughout the growing season. September and October were dry, leading to a fine late ripening period. Harvest started 26 September, finishing on 3 November. Very precise and pure on the palate, with restraint on the nose. Still full of youth, this needs to breathe in the glass before aromas of elderberry and a hint of raspberry start to emerge. Subtle cinnamon and clove spice on the palate, finishing with an umami flourish. The tannins are glorious – fine, ripe and structural. Great length to finish. An elegant, undemonstrative wine that needs a bit of coaxing. (AH)
About the producer
Based just outside Florence, Bibi Graetz is something of a maverick in the Tuscan wine scene. Working with old vineyards of indigenous grapes around Chianti, he produces intense wines classified as IGT Toscana; not fitting neatly in either the Super Tuscan or Chianti camp.