2017 Volnay Les Paux Bois

The 2017 Volnay Pauxbois comes from vines at the top of the slope on white limestone soils. It has an elegant bouquet of red cherries, red currant juice and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit, and the terroir comes through nicely; a touch of sour cherry perks up the finish.

Highest parcel of Volnay, south facing and right by the trees. Lots of limestone compared with the deeper soils lower down. No whole bunch (Haisma doesn’t think whole bunch works in Volnay). Tank sample. Delicate aroma on the nose that seems more Morey to me, peppery and floral. Sweet on the palate, charming and ripe but also completely fresh. No sign of the 30% wood because of the intensity of the fruit. Tannins are compact and smooth. Very accomplished wine. (JH)