2006 Vertente

The 2006 VERTENTE is usually a pretty good value point in Niepoort’s lineup. What do you get here if you trade up from the Twisted? The Vertente has more finesse and somewhat better structure and depth than the Twisted reviewed here that makes it more interesting. The differences are relatively small at times, however, particularly at the outset. It also has a hit of oak up front. Like its sibling, it has some brightness and energy, but tails off on the finish and with air. It is a recurrent theme on the ‘06s that they often seem better than they are—for the first hour. Drink now-2013. One of the Douro’s icons, as well as top estates, Niepoort presents a wide range of wines, paying serious attention to whites as well as reds, and occasionally dabbling with international grapes like Riesling and Pinot Noir. His upper level wines like Batuta and Redoma Reserva Branco are among the Douro’s most sought after trophies in most vintages. His 2006 white vintage was quite good, exceeding expectations. The reds seemed to me to suffer a lot from vintage conditions, although certain decisions, like eliminating Batuta and using the juice for Redoma, often resulted in wines not too far off the 2005 red marks. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565