1999 Cornas Le Vignon

The prodigious 1999 Cornas Le Vignon is one of the finest wines of the vintage. It is made from 80-year old vines. The wine exhibits minerality in its superb blackberry and cassis-scented bouquet. There are also hints of violets, new saddle leather, and truffles. Remarkably, 79% stems were used in fermentation, something that is not detectable in the aromatics or flavors, but contributes considerably to the wine's definition and grip. This large-scaled, massive Cornas captures a style between the traditional behemoths of the past and the more polished, barrique-aged Cornas of the future. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2016. Last year this offering was listed under the name Michel Perraud, but that is the brand name created by Patrick Lesec. Now he is putting his name on the label so there can be no confusion. Whatever the name, this is a gorgeous effort. Made in a Burgundian-like fashion, the wine experiences a five day cold soak, low sulphur levels, no rackings, and bottling with neither fining nor filtration. From an appellation with numerous underachievers, it is remarkable that an outsider (from Paris by way of Santa Barbara) can produce Cornas with such richness, complexity, and appellation authenticity. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048