1996 Chambertin

The 1996 Clos de Tart Grand Cru must surely be considered a failure in terms of the vintage and the repute of the vineyard. It was picked from September 30 to October 4 at 34hl/ha. It has consistently come across as rustic and overdone on the nose, dominated by diffuse exotic scents that now appear to be rapidly drying out. The palate is hard and rather aggressive, completely missing the elegance and finesse that Pinot Noir ought to convey, and leaving a husk on the finish. This was Sylvain Pitiot’s maiden vintage, and I can only deduce that he was trying hard to impress his new employers. Tasted at the Clos de Tart vertical at Ten Trinity in London.

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 1996 Clos de Tart Grand Cru - which was Sylvain Pitiot's debut vintage - has a surprisingly rich, licorice-tinged bouquet, although it does not have the charm or the pinoté of the 1997. This just seems a little "forced" compared to others, and it seems to dry a little. The palate is medium-bodied and shows a little more class than the nose, grippy in the mouth with baking powder and white pepper notes, bay leaf and clove. There is a feral aspect to this Clos de Tart, yet there is decent length here. Drink this now and over the next decade. Tasted September 2015.