2018 Cantenac Brown
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Tasting notes
The 2018 Cantenac Brown, which I had recently tasted as part of my horizontal, here replicates that performance. Very pure on the nose, perhaps a little more opulence than the previous bottle, this is beautifully defined with subtle tobacco scents percolating through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and extra supple with great tension towards the finish. This is quintessential Margaux and a superb wine from winemaker José Sanfins. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Rich and quite complete nose. Then smooth fruit with polished tannins. Glossy and very different from some of the lesser Margaux. Composed and fun. (JR)
This is a powerful wine, but delivers a lilting elegance and freshness that runs through the ripples of blackberry and damson fruit. A flash of heat provides an echo of the heat of the summer, but this is a confident wine from an estate that is increasingly impressive. New owner Tristan le Lous arrived in late 2019, so for the final ageing and bottling of this vintage, working with long-time director José Sanfins. 60% new oak barrels.
The 2018 Cantenac Brown was deeply impressive when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle, it has a splendid, sophisticated bouquet of black fruit, light tobacco notes and a touch of violet and crushed stone; there is wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive from start to finish, with fine-grained tannins, superb mineralité and a disarming sense of tension that lingers on the aftertaste. This is a benchmark Cantenac Brown that comes highly recommended.
About the producer
Tristan le Lous purchased this Third Growth in 2019, keeping on José Sanfins on as director. There has been significant work in the vineyards here, with a sustainable, organic approach across the 48 hectares.