2017 Dellchen Grosses Gewachs

Iris and ginseng, sea breeze and ripe white peach combine for a site-typical aromatic performance and correspondingly alluring presence on a silken palate. Cool and laid-back in personality, yet possessed of an intricate as well as active impression of mineral matter – stone, alkali above all salts – and with its pit-piquancy deftly-integrated and harnessed entirely in the service of invigoration, this remarkable elixir takes control of the salivary glands as it glides off into a lingering finish that preserves haunting, billowing florality, and whose sense of buoyancy is rare among Grosse Gewächse. For intriguing and subtle complexity, this easily surpasses the three wines of that genre to have preceded it in Dönnhoff’s tasting line-up. If you follow my frequent comments concerning the taste preferences that prevail among his countrymen and many German critics, it won’t surprise you that Dönnhoff says many tasters – most of whom, granted, assess this wine at a much earlier stage than I do – aren’t excited by Dellchen and “find its aromas and sense of buoyancy almost a bit frivolous.”

Purity of fragrance with plenty of local orchard fruit, supported by a fine floral hint. Although the texture is mouth-coating and viscous, subtle peel notes and a vibrant acidity keep the taste buds alert. Finally a stony minerality gets a real grip on the long finish. (MS)