1966 Taylor's

The 1966 Taylor's Vintage Port is a hugely overlooked Port. The bouquet is typical 1966 and oddly mirrors a Left Bank Bordeaux: conservative and masculine, yet detailed and offering attractive scents of cigar box, mahogany bureau, sandalwood and ripe cherry. The palate is foursquare with wonderful structure, spicier and more vigorous than the 1963 with greater persistence and focus. There is a wonderful bead of acidity and it feels virile and fresh on the finish that has beguiling symmetry. Later it reveals wild strawberry, cigar box, apricot and autumn leaves with superb precision. Surely the best Port of the vintage! Tasted in the Factory House in Porto for "Taylor's - The Story of a Classic Port House" book. Bottled 2015.

This was served at a wonderful dinner in The Factory House next to a Graham's 1970 that was so vigorous and concentrated that the more delicate 1966 was a little overwhelmed, but it certainly grew in the glass and is a lovely subtle current drink. (JR)

This house must certainly be the Latour of Portugal. Their ports are remarkably backward yet still impressive when young. Of all the vintage ports, those of Taylor need the longest time to mature and even when fully mature seem to have an inner strength and firmness that keep them going for decades. Their tawnys are also among the very best, though somewhat expensive. The 1966 is drinking well now and is a very good rather than an exceptional Taylor.