2016 Meursault Genevrieres

Bottled April 2018. A subtle spice at first and opens to a mealy complexity. On the palate, succulent and almost a touch of honey and blossom even with all that richness. Power and finesse. Similar to 1992, he says. Structured yet rich and with freshness to a long, long finish. (JH)

(the crop here was normal--in fact, higher than in 2017; bottled a week prior to my visit): Enticing aromas of lemon, lime, powdered stone and white flowers. Suave, silky and fine-grained; not particularly fleshy but broad, dry and energetic, with its citrus and floral flavors framed and extended by underlying minerality. Perfectly integrated acidity contributes to this wine's overall impression of elegance and equilibrium.

Thankfully, the 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres was a normal crop from Dominique Lafon, comprising ten and a half barrels. It has a vivid, hazelnut and flinty bouquet that is a little stricter than other years but very well focused. The palate is very composed with fine, lightly honeyed fruit, hazelnut and almond, leading to a very pretty and harmonious finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a very well-crafted, quintessential Genevrières that does its best to compensate for the devastation wrought in other vineyards.