1996 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé Vinothèque

Wafting from the glass with aromas of mandarin oil, warm bread and raspberries, mingled with notes of clear honey, blanched almonds and pastry cream, the 1996 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque is showing superbly. It's full-bodied, tensile and searingly chalky, but this concentrated and intense wine's racy spine of acidity is beautifully integrated. This was the first blend Lécaillon presided over as a Roederer employee—three years before he was appointed chef des caves in 1999—and it was clearly a harbinger of great things to come. Amazingly, the finished pH is fully 2.82, yet the wine is perfectly balanced.

Very slightly deeper pale amber than 1995. Acidity much more marked than on the 1995 rosé. Seems much more than one year younger than the rosé 1995. Very, very bright fruit. Still very edgy and unresolved. (JR)

This has moved into a great place, offering the maximum range of characters. From the chalk-driven core emerges an array of spices, fresh mushrooms, white truffles, cocoa powder and dried, woody notes. There’s an explosive feel to the palate with spiced black cherries and plums. Intense acidity, raw and very powerful. The terroir is speaking loudly here. Smooth and fluid tannins offer some respite from the acidity at the finish. Drink or hold.