2017 St Joseph Le Clos

From a higher, east-facing vineyard, the 2017 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is almost black and is the most concentrated, powerful Saint Joseph in the vintage. Blackcurrants, cassis, kirsch, ground herbs, beef blood, burning embers, and new leather notes all emerge from this beast of a Saint Joseph that has incredible depth and richness, an Hermitage-like power and opulence, and a great finish. Give bottles 3-4 years and it should evolve gracefully for two decades. There are a tiny 228 cases produced. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

The 2017 Saint-Joseph Le Clos takes intensity and richness in Saint-Joseph to virtually another level. Loaded with dense, ripe fruit from its facing slopes, it should prove to be a great, long-lived wine. Plum and blueberry notes merge seamlessly with crushed stone to create a concentrated, full-bodied wine, with terrific structure and length. No, Michel, I'm not giving this 100 points, but it is darn good, among the best St. Joes I've ever tasted.

Beautifully aromatic dried flowers, graphite and roasted red berries with roasted meat and grilled peaches. The palate has a smooth, deeply ripe core of dark berries with supple and succulent tannins. Drink or hold.