2015 Entre Chien et Loup
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Tasting notes
Two more whites, albeit very different in style, completed the lineup. The 2015 White Wine Entre Chien et Loup from Sine Qua Non, a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petite Manseng and 2% Viognier, has an enticing nose that expresses the Roussanne with style. Exuberant scents of apricot, kerosene, chamomile and chai blossom from the nose. The palate is intense but balanced and perfectly controlled, quite spicy with grilled walnuts and smoke, and sports fantastic definition on the persistent finish. I am not familiar with Manfred Krankl’s whites (we don’t see them much on these shores), but this bottle made me want to investigate further.
Critic scores
Average Score
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate
Neal Martin
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The 2015 White Wine Lightmotif opens with a huge nose of apricot, peach pit, honey, chamomile and herbs. Ample and luscious on the palate, with tremendous depth, the 2015 is terrific today, even though it is still recovering from its recent bottling. I would give it a few years to settle down. The Sine Qua Non whites always need time in bottle, and that is very much the case here as well. In 2015, the low yields produced a white that is quite intense, even by Sine Qua Non standards. The blend is 40% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petite Manseng and 8% Viognier.
The 2015 Entre Chien et Loup is a blend of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petit Manseng and 8% Viognier coming 44% from Bien Nacido Vineyard, 30% from the Cumulus (Estate) Vineyard and 26% from the Eleven Confessions (Estate) Vineyard. No settling was done to the juices—they were fermented as “dirty” as possible and, as usual, they were not racked. This wine was matured for around 19 months (bottled April 12, 2017), in: 19% concrete eggs, 20% stainless steel, 20% used barrels and 41% new French oak. It opens with a positively electric nose of ripe apricots, pink grapefruit and green mango with notions of candied ginger, honeycomb, allspice and baking bread. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully satiny texture and incredible freshness, cutting through the dense tropical and stone fruit layers, finishing with epic length and many layers of savory and spice notions. By the way, I love the name of this wine and just wait until you see the label which, I’m happy to report, has already (somehow) been given the all-clear by the TTB. 811 cases were made. Drinking deliciously right now, it is built like a brick house and should cellar gracefully for 10-12 years+.
As good, if not better than the 2014 white, the 2015 White Wine Entre Chien et Loup (which translates to between a dog and wolf, but is a French saying referring to dusk/twilight) checks in as a blend of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petite Manseng and 8% Viognier, raised in a combination of concrete eggs, stainless steel, used barrels and new French oak (varying sizes). The Chardonnay dominates on the nose which shows terrific buttered citrus, stone fruits, marzipan and brioche nuances. These carry over to the palate where the wine is full-bodied, thrillingly concentrated and textured, with bright, even racy acidity. Give this beauty a few years, and it’s going to keep for two decades or more. I loved the 2013s from Manfred Krankl, and these are reminiscent of the 2010s (as are the 2015s). The 2014s are more plush and sexy, with a forward style that’s already impossible to resist. The 2015 reds were all tasted as barrel samples, and these show the firm, structured style of the vintage and I suspect are going to require bottle age to show at their best. I’ve also included the “The Third Twin” releases here, and it, like the Next Of Kyn releases, are released under a separate label and focus on the estate The Third Twin vineyard located outside of Los Alamos.
About the producer

The brainchild of Manfred Krankl, Sine Qua Non (commonly known as SQN) is a cult California producer whose wines are avidly collected. The winery focuses on Rhône-inspired blends, however is famously non-conformist with each release totally unique.