2016 Chateauneuf du Pape

Stewed red fruit on the nose, with marginally better freshness on the palate but then a green and bitter streak that makes this very hard-edged. Strongly bitter finish. (RH)

Château La Nerthe is one of the oldest producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. La Nerthe boasts 90 ha (222 acres) in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, two-thirds of which surround the château, while the final third is located on the famous plateau of La Crau. All the vineyards are farmed organically. Since young winemaker Ralph Garcin joined the estate in 2016, small yet significant changes have been made here. Ralph has introduced vinification by plot, investing in smaller fermentation tanks and larger ageing vessels. He’s also been making improvements to their viticultural practices, such as introducing organic farming. 37% Grenache, 29% Syrah, 27% Mourvèdre, 7% Cinsault. Vinification in mix of large, medium and small barrels. Aged for one year prior to bottling. Mid crimson. Nose so much more diffuse than the northern Rhônes! Sweet but a bit formless for the money. I’m sure there is more structure to this than the average Châteauneuf but it’s still a bit too chewy for comfort. Sweet tea leaves is the overriding impression. A bit stringy, and little bit hot, on the end. (JR)

Deeply colored, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 37% Grenache, 29% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre, and the rest Cinsault and other permitted varieties. With classic notes of currants, ripe black cherries, new saddle leather, and peppery herbs, it's rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, with a pure, focused style that's going to age gracefully for 15-20 years. It's one of the finest classical cuvées I can remember.