2017 Cote Rotie Neve

From a vineyard just near Viallière and Grandes Places, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Neve is brought up all in barrels, 25% or less being new, which is the same élevage as the Mordorée. Nevertheless, it shows a very different personality compared to the Mordorée, with more minerality, austerity, tannins, and structure. Blackberries, currants, scorched earth, and graphite notes as well as incredible minerality all give way to a backward, concentrated, structured, beast of a Côte Rôtie. There are just 181 cases made, but it’s stunning stuff worth seeking out. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

From a rocky, mica-schist lieu-dit that's only recently been showing up on single-vineyard wines, Chapoutier's 2017 Cote Rotie Neve is a bold, full-bodied and powerful example of the appellation. Blueberry and boysenberry fruit is couched in rich, velvety tannins, followed by a long, lingering finish. Impressive.

Wildly exotic spices, dark plums, orange zest, peaches and ginger. So much happening already. The palate has a very succulent, juicy and lively feel with such smoothly layered, dark and red berries and fine, white-pepper allure and a succulent, fine, assertive tannin build. Cardamom and plums to close. Try from 2024.