2017 Latour a Pomerol

Solidly built, with tobacco, savory and licorice notes equally matched by blackberry and raspberry compote flavors. Shows good energy through the finish, where a warm gravel accent kicks in.—J.M.

I suspect the wine of the vintage on the Left Bank, the 2017 Château Latour is similar in style to the 2008, with maybe a hint of the 2012 in there as well. Concentrated, backward, full-bodied and reserved (it is Latour after all), yet with serious potential, it has textbook lead pencil and graphite aromas and flavors, sweet tannin, and a long, structured style on the palate. Hitting 13.4% alcohol (with a pH of 3.72), it’s not in the same league as some of the great vintages from this estate, yet it’s still a profound wine that will keep for 25-30 years. The final blend is 92.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.8% Merlot, and just a splash of Petit Verdot, which accounts for a miniscule 30% of the total production of the estate.

This doesn't quite possess the acidity-tannin-fruit triumvirate that it did in 2016 and 2015. They have extracted well but powerfully, and it sits a little brutally through the mid-palate. It will clearly age well, and is expertly restrained on the finish, but favours power over joy.