NV Quinta do Mourao S. Leonardo V Old White 90 Years

Blind tasting after dinner at DOC during our Port Harvest Tour, we later learned that this was a cask sample of pure ninety year old Port, which had it been registered at the time, could have been classified as a 1927 Colheita. Medium maple color with broad golden meniscus and perfectly clear optic, I knew this was more than 80 years of age, but did not figure it was from this exalted vintage. A beautiful bouquet of molasses, mahogany, torched sugar and over-ripe tropical fruit. Light-weight and lovely golden raisin, treacle and nectarine flavors are beautifully intertwined; intensely focused with a nerve shocking sweet entry and piercing acidity initially and throughout, which lead to an extremely soft and lacy texture. It delivered an everlasting, soft across the palate finish and the only thing missing was a semblance of richness, but instead, sublime elegance. This Mourão was in the upper stratosphere of any White Port I've ever tasted.

The NV Very Old White Port São Leonardo 90 Years is a field blend of grapes like Viosinho, Codega de Larinho, Cerceal and Malvasia from a 1927 barrel. It was bottled in 2019 with a bar-top cork and a hefty 309 grams of residual sugar. Very dark in color, this isn't what you'd expect. It's a lot more. It is easily the most concentrated of the group, simply unctuous and long on the finish. Indeed, the concentration level is sensational, perhaps to a point where some might prefer less. In any event, it seemingly has the concentration of Moscatel de Setúbal more than White Port. Stick a knife in it – it might stand up! There is ample power too, and it seems surprisingly fresh for its age. The sugary finish hides some of the power and complexity on early tastes, though. It still tastes great and will make you drool and swoon. A little more complexity might have been nice, but this is stunning on many fronts. As always, this producer is a little eccentric, and this isn't exactly a normal White Port. You'll like that or not.v

The NV Very Old White Port São Leonardo 90 Years is a field blend of grapes like Viosinho, Codega de Larinho, Cerceal and Malvasia from a 1927 barrel. It was bottled in 2019 with a bar-top cork and a hefty 309 grams of residual sugar. Very dark in color, this isn't what you'd expect. It's a lot more. It is easily the most concentrated of the group, simply unctuous and long on the finish. Indeed, the concentration level is sensational, perhaps to a point where some might prefer less. In any event, it seemingly has the concentration of Moscatel de Setúbal more than White Port. Stick a knife in it—it might stand up! There is ample power too, and it seems surprisingly fresh for its age. The sugary finish hides some of the power and complexity on early tastes, though. It still tastes great and will make you drool and swoon. A little more complexity might have been nice, but this is stunning on many fronts. As always, this producer is a little eccentric, and this isn't exactly a normal White Port. You'll like that or not.