2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

Always a brilliant wine, the 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is the normal blend of all the permitted varieties, brought up in tank with malolactic fermentation blocked. This beauty offers classic apple blossom, crushed rock-like minerality, and ample citrus in a clean, crisp, yet also concentrated package. It will be better with short-term cellaring yet keep for two decades. Paul-Vincent Avril continues to be one of the most talented and passionate winemakers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape today. From his estate located on the southern end of the village and pulling from roughly 90 acres of vines spread throughout the appellation, he makes a single white and red Châteauneuf-du-Pape and has resisted the urge to produce any special cuvées. The wine is always a blend of 60% Grenache 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and the rest a mix of permitted varieties, aged all in older foudre in a temperature-controlled and humidified cellar. His Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a staunchly traditional and world-class wine that always shines for its elegance and texture. Time will tell, but my money is on his 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape being the greatest wine ever made at this address, although the 2007 from my cellar will give it a run for its money. Also, Vincent always pulls out older vintages during visits and I’ve included those wines here as well as few from my cellar.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a stunningly concentrated effort produced from minuscule yields of only ten hectoliters per hectare. Made and aged entirely in stainless steel, it offers aromas of apple blossoms and tangerines. This medium to full-bodied white combines richness and lime zest, and it seems to be developing quickly. Already showing hints of honey and truffle, I would opt for drinking it on the young side, although Paul-Vincent Avril likes his whites after ten or more years of cellaring.

Vivid straw-yellow. Highly perfumed citrus and orchard fruit and floral qualities on the mineral-accented nose. Shows excellent concentration as well as vivacity, offering palate-staining pear, Meyer lemon and brioche flavors that stretch out steadily with air. The floral and mineral elements return emphatically on the intense, sharply focused finish, which lingers with serious persistence.