2005 Columella
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Tasting notes
The 2005 Columella is a bit of a comedown after the promise of the 2004. This is backward, broody and dense on the nose, with some wood still not fully assimilated, violet emerging with time. The palate is noticeably sweet on the entry, to the point where it almost feels a bit saccharine. Is this South Africa or Saint-Émilion? Quite lavish but also oaky on the finish, it feels rather generic. Tasted at the Columella vertical in Hong Kong.
Critic scores
Average Score
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Two years in small oak. Dark rusty red colour with lots of shading at the pale rim. Very warm, rich, briary cocktail on the nose with some prunes and dark chocolate. Fragrant almost floral but sweet and a bit pruney on the palate. Finishes a bit suddenly. Eben describes this as southern Rhône compared with the more northern Rhône style of the 2012. (JR)
(14.1% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Sexy, deep, wonderfully complex nose offers scents of red and black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, tar and dark chocolate. Very concentrated, firmly structured and young, offering outstanding breadth and inner-mouth tension. The black raspberry and spice flavors are complicated by intriguing flinty minerality and a pepper nuance and given a light touch by lovely floral lift. Wonderfully pure, silky, weightless wine with suave tannins and superb persistence. Incidentally, Sadie offered the opinion at this point in the tasting that Grenache should really be the best red grape in South Africa, “especially when it’s planted on sandstone soil in cooler spots.” He added that he plans to give Mourvedre three more years to prove itself before he eliminates it from Columella. “I love the grape for its sophisticated tannins but it can’t be tamed; it’s like a stray dog.”
Tougher than 2004. Still needs lots of time. Very pungent. Dense and firm. Black and graphite. Tar and liquorice. Chewy and lots of elements that Eben associates with Bordeaux not Swartland. Still very tight and dry. Drought year. Keep this! (JR)
About the producer
Since he started making wine under his own name in 2000, Eben Sadie became a cult name in South Africa. The Swartland producer is best known for his flagship Columella and Palladius, but he also makes a range of whites and reds under the Old Vine Series, which became the District Series in 2025.
Product details
Syrah / Shiraz, Grenache/ Garnacha , Cinsault, Carignan
Red
Dry