NV Quinta do Mourao S. Leonardo 30 Years

The NV Tawny Porto 30 Years S. Leonardo is a field blend coming in with 143 grams of residual sugar. It was bottled with a bar-top cork in 2017. This is where the lineup gets more unctuous. The mid-palate doesn't seem thick, but the subtle concentration is superb on the finish. It seems rich and creamy at first, spicy and lively later. The fruit changes here in terms of maturity compared to the 20. This adds some complexity, finishing with a bit more molasses and hint of treacle. The 20 can't quite match this in concentration, but it still holds its own in many ways, as it is more complex than normal for a 20. This also develops a livelier feel, despite its age. If you're comparing the other way, this doesn't have the power of the 40, but it has a bit more personality and a brighter demeanor. Each to his own. Overall, the concentration (while maintaining elegance) makes this focused 30 very fine, but the superb balance is more important to its personality. As much as I like this—very much my style—the price spike compared to the 20 is also pretty serious. There's always that question concerning where the 30 fits in the range (see my "Portugal, Port: 30 Year Ports" article from the February 2018 issue for more on this topic.) Some will think this is the perfect compromise between 20 and 40, while others will think they may as well go directly to the 40 if they want that extra complexity and concentration. This is better than the 20, but given the price spike, the 20 might be the best choice for bargain hunters.

The NV Tawny Porto 30 Years S. Leonardo is a field blend coming in with 143 grams of residual sugar. It was bottled with a bar-top cork in 2017. This is where the lineup gets more unctuous. The mid-palate doesn't seem thick, but the subtle concentration is superb on the finish. It seems rich and creamy at first, spicy and lively later. The fruit changes here in terms of maturity compared to the 20. This adds some complexity, finishing with a bit more molasses and hint of treacle. The 20 can't quite match this in concentration, but it still holds its own in many ways, as it is more complex than normal for a 20. This also develops a livelier feel, despite its age. If you're comparing the other way, this doesn't have the power of the 40, but it has a bit more personality and a brighter demeanor. Each to his own. Overall, the concentration (while maintaining elegance) makes this focused 30 very fine, but the superb balance is more important to its personality. As much as I like this—very much my style—the price spike compared to the 20 is also pretty serious. There's always that question concerning where the 30 fits in the range (see my "Portugal, Port: 30 Year Ports" article from the February 2018 issue for more on this topic.) Some will think this is the perfect compromise between 20 and 40, while others will think they may as well go directly to the 40 if they want that extra complexity and concentration. This is better than the 20, but given the price spike, the 20 might be the best choice for bargain hunters.

This is the age at which the S. Leonardo lineup really begins to shine, in my opinion. I’ve always found the appearance to be a bit out of character for the age, though. It’s a medium tawny without the red I’d normally associate with that description, so it seems light and airy for a 30-yr old. Orange peel, cinnamon, cardamom, possibly some pipe tobacco, and some dust on the nose. In the mouth it is full and smooth, creamy, and softly sweet. The acidity of the finished blend is not at the level of the ’72 Colheita from which it is derived, but is sufficient. The late palate/early finish.