2016 Haut Marbuzet

The 2016 Haut-Marbuzet is a brilliant vintage for this Saint-Estèphe reference point. Unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of blackberries and cassis mingled with subtle hints of exotic spices, cigar wrapper, vanilla pod and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a tightly wound core, ripe structuring tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Readers will have a hard time choosing between the gourmand, extrovert 2019 and the more reserved, serious 2016, but I suspect that at age 20, it's the latter that will stand out as the finest Haut-Marbuzet of the decade.

Dark ruby in colour, this has a luxurious texture, plenty of character with smoke-blackened plum, tobacco, liqourice root, edges of sour cherry on the finish, enjoyable, classic, packed with character. Can just about drink now but no rush and will hold on for decades. An impressive wine from owner Henri Duboscq, from a well located 66ha vineyard that is roughly half pure gravel, half clay-gravel. Long maceration, old school winemaking coupled with 100% new oak.

The 2016 Haut-Marbuzet has a straightforward bouquet of brambly red fruit, a little rustic in style but gaining finesse with aeration. The palate offers sappy red fruit, a bit chewy in the mouth with a little toughness toward the finish. Give this Saint-Estèphe another couple of years. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.