2007 Casa Ferreirinha Reserva Especial

The 2007 Reserva Especial, a blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 30% Touriga Nacional and 30% Tinta Roriz aged for 18 months in new French oak, was seen recently. Honestly, I have very little else to add to that note. This is being published only because it was poured next to the 2007 Leda, also reviewed. The comparison between the levels--this being so much more expensive--is worth noting. What do you get for the upgrade in price? Well, this is bigger everywhere. As much as I loved the Leda, this adds a layer or two of depth and considerably more power. At the moment, there is nothing to choose between them, though. The Leda holds its own by being far more expressive and far more elegant. Those who appreciate a more understated and more graceful demeanor may prefer it overall. However, this Reserva Especial (c'mon, this should have been declared as Barca Velha) will win in the long run. It is evolving at a snail's pace, to be sure. It seems likely to exceed my current end-date drinking window, let alone the original one, but let's remain conservative for a while. While this remains rather shut down and sometimes curled into a fetal position, cellar it and drink the Leda. One day they will separate more. I do tend to allow the wines to grow into their potential and give clearer signals as to what they are. This Reserva is not expressive yet, but the Leda has a cap while the sky might one day be the limit here. That day is not quite today, although I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. There were 33,000 bottles produced.

The 2007 Reserva Especial (Casa Ferreirinha) is part of this issue's vertical. The special theme for this wine in the vertical selected by winemaker Luis Sottomayor is that this is the first vintage he actually vinified. A big, mouthfilling wine, this is fresh and brilliant. While it certainly has rich and concentrated fruit, it maintains its balance perfectly (unlike the 2003, also reviewed). With fine focus and purity of flavor, this is a replay of the 1997, but a bit bigger and certainly younger. It is magnificent and it should age brilliantly. I don't think too many would've have complained if this had been called Barca Velha. I suspect with another decade, it will wind pretty close to the 1997 in this vertical. It just needs a little more evolution. Unlike most of the oldies here, I'm told this is still available through Broadbent as it is the current release.

Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão – from a mix of high-elevation and lower vineyards but all in the Douro Superior – from vineyards at Quinta da Leda and Quinta do Sairrão. The first vintage of this wine over which director of oenology Luis Sottomayor had complete control – from vineyard to bottle. Just released. First note is like wild elderberry and there is a definite note of balsam. Intense, dark and coaly (ie dark and dry). Fine and dry textured. Tannins just glide across the palate. Spice and pepper and dark fruit. Gets more meaty with air. Thicker texture than the Barca Velha 2004 but that same balsamic note that I found more marked on older vintages of this wine. With food (wood pigeon with a rich mushroom risotto), this became more silky(JH)