2014 Gruner Veltliner Tradition
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Tasting notes
Coming from a highly underrated vintage, the golden-yellow colored 2014 Grüner Veltliner Tradition offers a clear, fresh and spicy as well as aromatic bouquet of ripe and concentrated (stone) fruits intermixed with herbal and smoky crushed stone aromas. There is great first maturity already that is so irresistibly inviting! Sourced from 50+-year-old vines on the loess and sand soils in the Renner, this is a highly elegant, fresh, piquant and transparent Veltliner with a well-structured, long and salty finish. Given the aromas of Turkish honey, popcorn and almonds as well as the lingering salinity and great elegance, there is a lot of Chablis character here although this Veltliner is more crystalline in style. Its finish is piquant and salty and tickling the palate. This is a gorgeous white and one of my very favorites I have tasted this year from this producer. (Tasted in July 2017 at Schloss Gobelsburg.)
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
This product of Moosbrugger’s empathetic investigation into the principles and methods that prevailed at Schloss Gobelsburg in the early to mid-20th century (as detailed by me in past Vinous reports) has once again resulted in a wine of elusive and rarified complexity such as you aren’t likely to experience in the early 21st century anywhere other than at the Wachau’s Nikolaihof. Alkaline, mossy, and roasted root vegetable aromas anticipate the flavors to come. Hints of mint, verbena and iris waft coolingly across a satin-textured palate, adding a high-toned layer to a complex performance marvelously transparent to a shimmering array of nuances. The finish here offers a rarefied variation on the peppery and stony impingements that characterized the corresponding “regular” 2014 Renner bottling, along with a striking evocation of raw scallop, its sweet-saline, iodine-tinged savor setting the salivary glands palpitating. (I last tasted this shortly ahead of its midsummer bottling.)
This product of Moosbrugger’s empathetic investigation into the principles and methods that prevailed at Schloss Gobelsburg in the early to mid-20th century (as detailed by me in past Vinous reports) has once again resulted in a wine of elusive and rarified complexity such as you aren’t likely to experience in the early 21st century anywhere other than at the Wachau’s Nikolaihof. Alkaline, mossy, and roasted root vegetable aromas anticipate the flavors to come. Hints of mint, verbena and iris waft coolingly across a satin-textured palate, adding a high-toned layer to a complex performance marvelously transparent to a shimmering array of nuances. The finish here offers a rarefied variation on the peppery and stony impingements that characterized the corresponding “regular” 2014 Renner bottling, along with a striking evocation of raw scallop, its sweet-saline, iodine-tinged savor setting the salivary glands palpitating. (I last tasted this shortly ahead of its midsummer bottling.)