2015 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains l'Exception
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Tasting notes
(22 hectoliters per hectare produced from an 87-year-old parcel of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay on a gravelly site near Meursault): Good bright red. Very pure aromas of cherry and spices, with complicating notes of licorice and mint. Sophisticated, dry and savory, offering lovely intensity for its humble appellation. Finishes with a persistent tangy spice character. Frédéric Lafarge told me that when his grandfather started making wine in 1934, the estate only bottled this cuvée and Volnay Clos des Chènes. (By the way, Frédéric also showed me a special barrel of this juice that had been destemmed by hand and pressed in a vertical press. This sample boasted incredibly round, sweet flavors of crushed cherry, rose petal and violet; lovely saline complexity; amazingly suave tannins; and excellent length, and the Lafarges plan to bottle this wine in magnums. I scored it 88-90, which is off the charts for Passetoutgrain.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain l'Exception is made as the same regular cuvée, but everything here is done by hand, including de-stemming and pressing in a small vertical press. It is essentially and homage to Frederic's grandfather who made wines in this fashion. It has a lovely nose, perhaps a little more floral than the regular cuvee. Perhaps on the palate there is a touch more piquancy with fine acidity and the finish shows impressive precision. There is just one barrel of this delicious Passetoutgrain and it will be bottled only in magnums.
88-year-old vines on border of Meursault. Very gravelly and very suitable for complantés Gamay and Pinot. His grandfather started with Clos des Chênes and this vineyard, which was then young. One hectare, which is still very healthy. This is made in homage to Frédéric’s grandfather. No regular Passetoutgrains made this year. Quite angular and tart. Not as much fun as their Beaujolais crus! Still quite chewy. (JR)
The 2015 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains has a lovely blueberry and morello cherry-scented bouquet with just a cheeky touch of vanilla. There is fine purity here. The palate is easygoing with wonderful purity, the tannins soft and caressing with a touch of black pepper on the finish. This will be difficult to resist in its youth. Dec 2016, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2017-2021