2013 Chianti Classico

Fontodi's 2013 Chianti Classico is a textbook expression from the appellation. The wine represents a pure expression of Sangiovese that sees six months in large oak casks and an additional 18 months in neutral barrique. Thanks to that non-intrusive aging regime, the wine shows enormous clarity and purity. Sangiovese is front and center. Wild berry, blue flower and tangy spice abound.

The 2013 Chianti Classico is gorgeous. My impression is that proprietor Giovanni Manetti has pulled back on the intensity in his wines, although he insists nothing has changed. Still, the 2013 impresses for its total polish and finesse. Of course, some of that may be attributable to the late-ripening vintage. In my view, slightly shorter macerations and more use of large format oak plays a role here. At the same time, there is plenty of Fontodi's signature textural richness, but also striking aromatic presence and tons of persistence. A closing burst of acidity adds vivacity to the dark red and blue stone fruit flavors. The 2013 is fresh, less heavy and also less oaky than some recent editions. This is an absolutely impeccable wine from Fontodi.

Organic. 100% Sangiovese. Mid cherry red. Peppery dark-red fruit. Peppery and lively on the palate, too. Tangy, fresh and moreish and still full of youthful energy. (JH)