2013 Hermitage Blanc

Pale gold. Powerful, sharp aromas of mineral-accented pear, nectarine, orange pith and candied ginger, backed by hints of pungent flowers and iodine. In a bright, vibrant but concentrated style; a solid core of minerality adds cut and lift to the intense, impressively concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors. Tightens up slowly with air and finishes dry, minerally and extremely long, leaving behind sexy floral and candied citrus fruit notes.

Chave's 2013 Hermitage Blanc had just been bottled prior to my visit. Always 80% to 85% Marsanne and the rest Roussanne, from the lieux-dits of Rocoules, Peleat, L'Hermite and Maison Blanche, it's raised primarily in barrels with a small percentage new. Loaded with notions of buttered citrus, white currants, liquid rock, white flowers and hints of honeysuckle, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, beautiful freshness and purity, and a focused, clean, elegant profile that keeps you coming back to the glass. It lacks the sheer wealth of material found in blockbuster years like 2009 and 2003, yet is perfectly balanced, has loads of richness and a great finish. Give it a year or two and enjoy bottles over the following two decades.

Tasted in components: #1, from Péleat: Suave, sharply focused citrus and orchard fruit aromas, along with hints of anise, iodine and chalky minerals. Juicy and precise, displaying strong cut and lift to its pear and Meyer lemon flavors. Sweeter on the finish, with the iodine note echoing. #2, from Rocoules: Even more minerally than the Péleat, with emphatic thrust to its juicy orange and bitter pear skin scents. Taut and stony on the palate, showing excellent clarity to its sappy pear and tangerine flavors. Closes tight and dry, with lingering minerality and a touch of fennel. #3, from l'Ermite: Finely etched aromas of orange pith, anise and smoky minerals, with a sexy floral nuance emerging slowly. Concentrated yet lithe, displaying intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of honeysuckle. Finishes spicy and tight, with resonating minerality and excellent persistence. The ultimate looks be concentrated yet lithe, with superb tension and power to its fresh pear and orange flavors. Fans of high-end white Burgundy will go nuts for it.