2012 Charmes Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
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Tasting notes
The bad news is that this year there are only three barrels of the 2012 Charmes Chambertin Vielles Vignes instead of the usual eight, since the ancient vines were pole-axed by coulure during the season. Denis explained that the soils here are very shallow, 20cm until you hit the bedrock, and the grapes, what is left of them, tend to ripen easily. What makes it special is that Denis’ parcel lies on a part of the vineyard next to Mazoyeres whereby the limestone from the Combe d’Orveau eroded and tumbled into the climat. It has an exquisite bouquet with mineral rich dark berry fruit, blackberry and raspberry leaf, subtle dried violet petal scents, though not as pronounced as others from this vineyard. The palate is beautifully balanced, nonchalant and self-effacing. The black and red fruit are mingling together and there is nigh perfect acidity on the finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is totally entrancing – but these days I expect nothing less from Denis Bachelet.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(just half of a normal crop in 2012; one of the three and a half barrels is new): Good dark red. Lovely lift to the ripe aromas and flavors of boysenberry, violet and underbrush. Sweet, ripe and dense but without any impression of weight; the texture of liquid velvet suggests a gentle extraction. Big, broad and long, with almost invisible tannins arriving late. Even with the annual replacement of failing old vines, the average vine age here is more than 80 years, notes Bachelet.
The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is incredibly finessed and gracious, which is remarkable for a vintage that has yielded so many powerhouses. Here, it is the wine's total sense of grace that stands out most. Sweet tobacco, cinnamon and a melange of blue-toned fruits build to the effortless, caressing finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. Sadly, there are just three barrels when typically there are 8.
Normally they make eight barrels; in 2012 they made three and a half. Coopers must have sold many feuillettes in 2012. (They have made six and a half barrels in 2013). Black cherries and very fine and firm. Great structure as well as charming fruit. (JR)