2012 Barolo Ornato
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Tasting notes
Light bricky red. Deliciously fragrant with seductive red fruit and a fine floral note. Hint of orange. Bone dry, very tightly woven on the palate. Embryonic but sophisticated and with a strong core of fruit sweetness in a powerful frame. (JH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2012 Barolo Ornato is terrific. The Ornato is the most changed wine at Pio Cesare over the last decade, now that the estate has backed off of the nearly black, oak-laden style that was in vogue in the 1990s and early 2000s. There is no shortage of depth or intensity, but the estate captures all of that in a much more classic style these days. A host of dark stone fruit, spice and leather notes flesh out in a deep, intense Barolo endowed with plenty of tannic punch. Far from an easygoing 2012, Pio Cesare's Ornato will require at least a few years in bottle to come into its own.
The 2012 Barolo Ornato offers a modern approach with allspice and toasted almond in front of dark fruit, blackberry preserves and grilled herb. Lighter touches of tar, smoke and cola appear at the back. Overall, this Barolo is well integrated and seamless in delivery. It makes a great wine to drink within the next ten years.
Serralunga d’Alba. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. The nose is just a touch candied and with notes of tea leaves and cherry and a little minty. Mid weight and supple palate that is a little marked by oak, yet elegant, gripping and polished. Dried fruit spectrum with minty notes on the finish, yet totally convincing. (WS)