2008 Rioja Reserva

Tempranillo from Rioja Alta. Fermented in cement tanks and aged for 17 months in French oak. Very elegant and well-judged oak, inspired in the classical rioja style, it has lots of sweet spices, violets, blackberries and oak. Well structured and still creamy despite its tannins and age. Very well built, in the comfort zone. (FC)

Brilliant ruby. Sexy, high-pitched red and dark berry scents are complemented by vanilla, cola and pipe tobacco. Sweet, palate-staining blackberry and cherry flavors are given definition and spine by juicy acidity. Supple tannins add shape to the wine's intense, sappy fruit on the long finish.

This wine is, year in, year out, among the best in its category. I'm talking about the red 2008 Valenciso Reserva, an explosive, aromatic, perfumed Tempranillo that mixes the more common strawberries, raspberries and cherries with more unusual violets and subtle spices with plenty of nuances and changing details, elegant and complex, starting to develop some tertiary characteristics. Perhaps some aromas are derived from the fact that the uncrushed grapes fermented in cement vats, a process that can sometimes can provoke intense aromatics. Also, the malolactic was very slow and did not finish until the spring/summer. The palate is lush, full and round, with sophisticated glossy tannins and good acidity. Add to this the effect of the 17 months in French oak that brought some spicy flavors, but that did not dry the wine at all. A beauty. At this price point, it is quite good value. 95,000 bottles.