2014 Meursault Les Perrieres

Vincent Dancer's 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is superb, unfolding in the decanter and glass with a youthfully reticent bouquet of green apple, smoke, white flowers, crushed chalky and gentle reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium-full, pure and concentrated, with lovely textural gloss, a bright line of acidity, a tight-knit core and a grippy, tongue-tinglingly intense finish. While some of Dancer's 2014s can already be approached with pleasure, it would be a mistake to open this until several more years have elapsed, but its quality is already apparent.