2009 State Lane Vineyard Grand Vin Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep ruby-red. If the Roberta's smells like Pomerol, this one is Haut-Brion-like in its wild notes of leather and road tar. Wonderfully thick and sweet but a bit funky too, offering plush flavors of black raspberry, licorice, leather and game. Very densely packed wine with nicely integrated acidity and copious, fully ripe tannins. Really scrapes the palate clean on the rising finish. If there's any brett here, it's just another element of complexity, as it does not dominate or dry the wine's fruit. (13.7% alcohol; 96% French oak--80% new--and 4% new Hungarian oak)

The more closed but potentially greater 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is a 480-case blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of licorice, creme de cassis, camphor and subtle toast. Full-bodied and concentrated, it represents 15% of the total Kapcsandy production. The wine finished with 13.7% alcohol, which in these days is relatively low, although the alcohol levels were down in 2009 through 2011 because of the cooler, less ripe years. It is hard to believe the Kapcsandy family, of Hungarian descent, purchased this property previously known as State Lane Vineyard in Yountville (15.5 acres alongside the Yountville cross roads) in May, 2000. They have been on a winning track ever since the first releases. The harvest dates at Kapcsandy will give readers a specific indication of how cool 2009, 2010 and 2011 were. That began to change with 2012 and continues with an earlier, riper harvest in 2013 as well. In 2009, Kapcsandy harvested their small vineyard in Yountville between the beginning of October and October 29. In 2010, the harvest for the most serious wines began on October 19 and ended November 4. In 2011 it was even more significant, with the harvest starting in early October, but not finishing for some cuvees until October 27. In 2012, the harvest began in September, which is more normal, but unfurled over a full month, finishing October 25. Kapcsandy’s 2010s, like many of the Bordeaux varietals in Napa Valley, are exceptionally successful. This was my first look at these 2010s (almost all of them from bottle) and it has turned out to be a sensational vintage of deep, rich, full-bodied wines that are very expressive and focused with plenty of aging potential. It is a less glamourous and exuberant vintage compared to 2007 or 2002, but may evolve along the wines of the great 2001s which were more closed, firm and restrained. Nevertheless, it’s a vintage to jump on as most of the wines are just hitting the market in 2013 and early 2014. A more mixed vintage, the quality in 2011 is much more irregular than one normally sees in Napa Valley. Kapcsandy’s wines turned out well, although overall the ratings are the lowest I have given their wines since they started producing estate wines. Lou Kapcsandy and his son Louis said they did a Draconian selection process that began in the vineyard with radical leaf pulling and a selection of only the ripest bunches because the vintage was so challenging. Kapcsandy’s 2012s appear to be the finest wines they have made since the 2007s. Readers should keep an eye out for Kapcsandy’s two Rose cuvees, which are made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tel. (707) 948-3100

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2039. Kapcsandy’s 2009s have developed beautifully over the last year. As great as those wines are, the 2010s are even better. The cold, late-ripening harvest produced stunning wines endowed with tons of energy and sheer power. The estate’s 2011s are equally impressive. I first tasted the 2011s this past spring when the component wines were still separate. I had an opportunity to sample multiple lots across various parcels and aged in barrels from different coopers. It was the kind of technical tasting I wish every Wine Advocate reader could experience at least once, because it is in these types of settings where the passion and attention to detail of an estate truly comes through loud and clear. There are also a few changes to the Kapcsandy lineup. Starting with 2011, the Estate Cuvee is no longer 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots that don’t make it into the Estate Cuvee are considered for Endre. With the 2010 vintage, Kapcsandy is introducing a new Proprietary Blend. In all of my travels throughout the world I have met few producers who can match Lou Kapcsandy’s passion and total dedication to excellence. Along with his son Louis and consulting winemaker Denis Malbec, Lou Kapcsandy continues to craft exceptional wines loaded with class and pedigree. Every wine in this lineup, from the newly expanded selection of roses, to the flagship reds and the fortified wine is well worth your time. Readers who want to learn more about Kapcsandy may want to take a look at my videos of the 2011 and 2012 harvest posted on our site. Tel. (707) 948-3100